How To Sew Mock-Overlock Stitch

One of my most asked questions is 'How to sew knits without a serger?'. Luckily, there are lots of techniques how you can sew stretchy fabrics by only using sewing machine (I share a lot of these techniques in this YouTube video).

In this tutorial, I want to share a very ease and simple technique of 'mock-overlock' stitch that will only need a straight stitch and a zigzag - this means that you'll be able to sew stitch even on a beginner sewing machine!

Anatomy of a mock-overlock stitch, sewn on sweatshirt fabric

This tutorial is created in partnership with Mettler, manufacturer of high quality threads.

For this technique, to create an elastic seam, we will need a special elastic thread - my favourite is Mettler Seraflex thread. Thanks to the innovative raw material PTT. Seraflex thread can be stretched up to 65% and achieves a sewing elasticity that is twice as high as that of standard sewing threads.

Mock-overlock seam sewn with Mettler Seraflex sewing thread

Now that we have the supplies ready, let's jump into the tutorial:

How To Sew Mock-Overlock Stitch

STEP 1. Thread your sewing machine using an elastic sewing thread (I'm using Mettler Seraflex). Elastic sewing thread goes to the top and bobbin.

Select straight stitch and lower thread tension, to get maximum elasticity of the thread.

Thread machine with elastic sewing thread

STEP 2. Put 2 knit fabric layers right sides together. Sew a straight stitch, about 6mm from the fabric edge.

Once sewn, you've created an elastic straight seam that will not break when fabric is stretched out.

Straight stitch is sewn about 6mm from fabric edge

STEP 3. Switch to 5mm width zigzag stitch and sew about 1mm from the first seam.

When needle is going down at the right side, make sure it goes along the fabric edge.

Zigzag stitch is sewn 1mm from the first seam

STEP 4. Press your seam well and that's it! You've created a durable, elastic seam that will allow you to easily sew garments from knit fabrics.

Finished and pressed mock-overlock seam

Enjoyed this technique? You may also like this video where I share a breakdown of 5 popular sewing techniques:

Wishing you a creative week ahead,

Julija (Julie) Gobere

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