Hello Darlings!
Today I am very excited to share my new make - an asymmetrical skirt, made using a self-drafted pattern. I recently caught a skirt-sewing bug, so be sure more skirt sewing content is coming up, ha!
As it's already a tradition with my self-drafted patterns, I will share a quick tutorial on how you can re-create this look using a basic skirt block (psst, between you and me - I have a basic skirt block tutorial coming up next Monday, so be sure to subscribe to my Youtube channel and don't miss out! ;) ). But before we dive in to this pattern tutorial, I want to share a few more looks of this skirt, plus a couple techniques I used to make it.
When it comes to custom sewing, I am all about the right fit. Measuring your pattern before cutting it out (to make sure pattern matches your measurements), fitting it before making final stitching and using techniques I talked about in this post - all help towards achieving that perfect fit each time.
For the hemline, I decided to do an invisible stitch, using a this technique that I learned at sewing school. It takes about 10 minutes to do this technique by hand, but it gives perfect results each time!
As for closure, I went with invisible side zipper, using this technique. I learned this technique 4 years ago and have been using it on all invisible zippers - the results are just SO good every time!
Working with plaid fabrics can be tricky, especially when you need to neatly connect them at seams, but there are a few tricks that will make this process waaayyy easier: I listed these this here and here.
And lastly, I added a small embroidery detail on lining (just for my eyes to see) - really gives an extra touch to this whole skirt, doesn't it?
And now... it's time for pattern tutorial!
PATTERN DRAFTING TUTORIAL
ASYMMETRIC SKIRT
In this tutorial, we will be adjusting only the front of the skirt, as the back was kept as it is in basic skirt pattern block (don't forget to subscribe to my Youtube channel for Basic skirt block tutorial coming up next week!). As it is an asymmetric skirt, we will do both sides individually (left side and right side), and later connect them to one front piece.
FRONT LEFT SIDE
Remove the front dart, by moving its width to the side of the seam.
2. At the top, measure desired width (I did 9 cm) and make a line. Connect the right point of the line, with the bottom of the skirt, thus creating a nice triangle (left side of the photo). Duplicate the triangle on a piece of paper, cut it out, flip on the axis (as shown in right side) - this will be your front left piece, and the flip axis will be the line which you will have to fold when sewing the skirt together.
FRONT RIGHT SIDE
1. From the top line, mark 9 cm down, all throughout the piece (as shown in right photo, red line).
2. Cut out at the red line, split the piece through the dart, and connect the piece as shown below, thus removing the dart and creating a nicely shaped one-piece detail (bottom picture).
CONNECTING BOTH SIDES
1. Take the bottom part of the right side, and add it to the bottom of the left side as shown; cut this entire piece as a single detail. Cut the right top detail separately, and sew it in the front piece before doing the folding.
2. Fold the front piece as shown, an voilà - the pattern is finished!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and wishing you a nice week ahead!
Best wishes,
Julie