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How To Sew Jeans Back Pocket

3 hours ago
2 min read

There are few garments as iconic as a classic pair of jeans. But even timeless classics can get a new look! In this post, we reinvent a timeless classic jeans back pocket and sew it the opposite away - we stitch inverted pocket rather than a traditional patch pocket, and give it a designer inspired topstitch look.


The key to successfully sewing an inverted pocket is hidden in the sequence of each step - and prep is half the work! Follow along the tutorial below and successfully stitch your own inverted jeans pocket.


This tutorial is created in partnership with Mettler - manufacturer of high quality threads.



Inverted jeans back pocket tutorial
Inverted jeans back pocket tutorial


How to sew jeans back pocket

First, prepare the pocket pattern with entry opening and add 1cm seam allowance around the edges and 5cm seam allowance at the top. On tear-away stabiliser, draw topstitching design.


On jeans back piece, mark pocket placement, then add tear-away stabiliser on top.


For the signature jeans look, thread your machine with a contrasting color denim thread - my favourite thread for this is Mettler Denim Doc, color 1479.

Mettler Denim Doc thread, color 1479
Mettler Denim Doc thread, color 1479

Mettler Denim Doc is a high-quality thread, perfect for sewing denim fabrics. This thread comes in 14 different colors - from contrasting ones for jeans topstitching, to a variety of shades that blend beautifully with most popular denim colors. Denim Doc is made with a polyester core and cotton cover - ideal for creating strong, durable seams on jeans.

Mettler Denim Doc contrasting color thread range
Mettler Denim Doc contrasting color thread range

Using a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm), start sewing over lines drawn on stabiliser.


Once lines are sewn, sew second line, about 2mm from first one. Then carefully remove tear away stabiliser.


After stitching is done, we now start installing the pocket bag. First press all seam allowance towards the right fabric side. Use fusible interfacing to reinforce the top seam allowance and draw pocket entry lines.


Put pocket bag right sides together with back detail and stitch around the pocket entry. Now cut through the opening and clip in the corners.


Turn pocket bag towards garment inside and neatly press around the opening.


From the garment inside, baste stitch around the perimeter of the pocket bag.


Stitching from the right side of the garment, sew around the pocket, using baste stitch as your guide.


Once stitched, remove the baste stitch and your designer inspired pocket is complete! It looks stunning on the outside and very neatly finished on the inside.

Finished inverted jeans back pocket right side view
Finished inverted jeans back pocket right side view
Pocket inside view
Pocket inside view

Enjoy sewing this designer inspired pocket to your jeans!


P.S. Sewing jeans? You might find a few of these tips extra helpful:


Wishing you a creative week ahead,

Julija (Julie) Gobere

 
 
 

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